Beijing used to be a city of narrow lanes. These alleys, called hutong in Mandarin, are rapidly vanishing to make way for more modern buildings. The hutongs come with their own rhythms and colors, and, for many visitors, are the most interesting part of a trip to Beijing. Will any of this be spared? Beijing expat and author Mike Meyer says that change is inevitable, but, perhaps, not always bad. In at least one case, an especially old hutong will be renovated but largely unchanged. There are even rumors of an old-time street car running down the middle of the street.



For the time being, Beijing's hutongs are still a major part of the city's flavor. There are a plethora of guided tours through China's oldest neighborhoods. Rickshaw tours and bicycle tours are two of the more popular, although it is also possible to go it alone as long as you have a route planned on a map. It is easy to suddenly lose you sense of direction as the lanes curve and turn. And this being mainly a residential area of the city, you're unlikely to find many non-Chinese speakers. Still, a few words of Mandarin, a quality phrasebook, and a smile will help you find some great street food as well as a feel for the unique way of life along the hutongs.