Ho Chi Minh City (more popularly known as Sai Gon) does not make a good first impression. The main road between the airport and the city is packed with traffic. The scene borders on chaos. Yes, this is a city with a huge traffic problem, and it is not always pedestrian friendly. Still, there are certain neighborhoods hidden away from the rest of the city that offer visitors a friendly and authentic experience. While Cu Chi tunnels and The War Remnants Museum are on the itinerary of most travelers, the true Sai Gon offers some of the most memorable experiences a traveler can have.

The neighborhood around the main streets of Vo Thi Sau and Hai Ba Trung offers an exceptional look into local life. This area, on the border of District 1, is a mere ten minute ride from the tourist area of Pham Ngu Lao, and a quick five minutes from Downtown (pending traffic).

A large park, Cay Xuan, (Green Tree in English), marks the beginning of this neighborhood and offers plenty of quiet and shady places to get away from the traffic and noise of the street. Most evenings, there are rides and refreshments available inside the park. It gets quite crowded with locals after work. Visitors might be invited to join a badminton game or offered a coke and a conversation during these peak hours.

The market across from the large, bright pink church has some of the best Noodle dishes in Sai Gon. This is a real market, so a stroll through it gives a good idea of the rhythms, smells, and sights of life in Sai Gon.

There are many street stalls and small shops between the market and Vo Thi Sau, as well as down Vo Thi Sau itself. These places serve good and cheap lunches and dinners. Though the idea of eating street food is a turn-off to some, it is one of the quintessential experiences of a visit to Sai Gon. (I've never gotten sick from any food stall in the Vo Thi Sau area).

A day wandering in this neighborhood is one of the best experiences I can recommend to someone visiting Viet Nam.